Sunday, December 24, 2017

Sending Holiday Good Cheer!

Peace and Love to You All!  And the Happiest of Solstice Holidays!

We are so thankful for all the support and good wishes that have come our way since arriving in Uganda and we want to send our gratitude and love back to you during these holidays.

We recently arrived in Tavira in the Algarve region of Portugal after spending a couple of wonderful days in Lisbon. We had this wild idea of spending Christmas with Derek, missing him so much. Since it was way too far to fly back to the US for a week, and equally as far to bring him to Africa, we figured that Portugal was about half way between and offered, hopefully, some warmer weather at this time of year…..so here we are. His girlfriend, Courtney, is with us also, which is great.

We explored Lisbon for a couple of days. What a beautiful city, so old and historic. There are lots of hilly, winding little roads through interesting neighborhoods, old churches, cobblestone streets, tons of coffee shops serving amazing baked goods, also tons of small grocery stores with delicious cheeses, cold meats and breads. Needless to say, we are enjoying the gastronomic delights very much. We then drove about 2 ½ hours south of Lisbon to Tavira, a lovely seaside town in the Algarve region, along the southern coast of Portugal, where we are spending Christmas together.  Since Spain is so close to the Algarve, we took a day and drove to the beautiful and dynamic city of Seville. The city is in full swing for the holidays with Christmas lights everywhere and people out and about enjoying the sights and each other. 


Lisbon City Center


View of Lisbon from the Castle San Jorge

Of course we went birding in the Parque Ria Formosa

Plaza de Espana in Seville



On a sad note, we are feeling the loss of Louise Vaccaro – mother, grandmother and mother-in-law – who passed peacefully after a long hospital stay in mid-December. She was 95 and had lived a very long and good life. We are glad she is at peace, but certainly miss her, especially at Christmas time.

We feel blessed to have your friendship and encouragement. We are grateful you are in our lives and we miss you very much. We wish you a lovely holiday season and a New Year filled with good health, fulfillment and peace.

Much love and peace,

Karen, David, Derek and Courtney

Wednesday, December 6, 2017

Sunday: Our Day Off....

The sun sets about 6:30pm and rises about 6:30am each day.  While there is a bit of twilight at the beginning and end of each day, the change from light to dark or dark to light happens more quickly than further north.  Last night, the full moon rose over the ridge to our east and it lit up the entire valley.  Just beautiful!


Monday-Saturday, we typically wake about 6:00am to prepare to go to school.  However, today, Sunday, we slept in until about 8:00am-----much needed and glorious.  We woke to discover an ambitious group of termites had broken through our bedroom baseboard and were already busy building a nest on the floor.  One of our suitcases was right by their worksite, but luckily they had not yet claimed the suitcase as part of their land acquisition.  So, after searching the house for any insect prevention products and some good debate, we cleaned up the nest, poured boiling water down the nest hole, and scattered some insect powder we found around the house. Now we wait to see if the termites have a second set of construction plans in mind. What we have found out is that there are numerous holes in the cement around this house that need to be filled. It is a brick exterior, but has never been plastered, so water and bugs can get in pretty easily. There is a plan in place to plaster the exterior of the house and fill the holes within. Let’s hope it’s before the next group of termites or whatever else seeking shelter comes in uninvited.

Guesthouse front entrance

Justine, who manages the Project Guesthouse in which we live, has Sunday off, so once up we prepared breakfast.  Today it was granola (bought in Kampala when we came back from Namibia and produced/packaged in South Africa) in a yogurt and banana mix.  Justine made the yogurt with her family cow’s fresh milk and the bananas were from a bunch we bought earlier in the week, but couldn’t eat them all fast enough before some became over ripe.  We have no refrigeration, so all food purchases and meals need to be thoughtfully planned.  To our breakfast we added coffee grown and produced locally and Splash pineapple juice from a box manufactured in Kampala.  For our coffee, we add room temperature milk from a small box that lasts 4 days once opened and locally produced brown sugar.  We eat in the main living room area of the guesthouse (all of the 4 bedrooms in this main building of the compound open into this room) and on this sunny morning we opened all the doors and windows.  The sounds we hear include some roosters crowing, cows mooing, birds singing, a scattering of human voices calling, and the bees taking nectar from the lovely white flowers on the front porch.  We are living in quite a special place.

Dining and living room, kitchen below



After breakfast several chores needed completing.  The dishes from last night’s supper and today’s breakfast needed washing.  We are also expecting several graduates from the Bududa Vocational Academy to stop by this afternoon and we must prepare for their visit.  I took on the dishes and Karen wen to the nearby area of shops.  We use the classic three-dishpan method for the dishes:  first one hot with soap, second lukewarm for the first rinse, third cold for the final rinse. Once cleaned everything dries in the morning sun.  Karen bought chapatis in the market and made arrangements for us to pick up some cold sodas later today (Coke and 5 Sprites). Each large pan-sized chapatti costs about 20 cents and the sodas cost about 30 cents.  As in most of the world, whenever a person invites someone to visit, there is an expectation that some treats will be offered.  We could have offered tea and chapatis, but we want to make a good impression and hope to get other graduates to visit us in the future, so soda it is!  Also, since Karen and I are representing the program, we will offer to pay for any travel expenses that any of the students incur.  We plan to locate and meet with as many graduates as we can to begin to compile a roster of graduates and to try and use their feedback to better inform the program.

Before the graduates’ visit, the day is ours to do any laundry, wash-up, and relax.  I’m getting a chance to write this latest blog entry.  Many folks here will attend church today and the services can vary greatly in length.  Schools take their longest break starting after next week (December 8) and will not return to school until early February.  This break marks the end of the school year, with a new school year starting in February.  We will be meeting with school folks during the break, but we hear things will slow down considerably. With school winding up and Christmas and New Year coming, this Sunday has a wonderfully low-keyed rhythm.  I find myself singing, “What a day for a daydream, custom made for a daydreaming boy….”


 Welcoming front porch with the view down the hill

I’m writing this in real time-----and we have just said goodbye to the group of 5 graduates who came to visit and share with us.  Everyone lived nearby, so travel expenses were not necessary and the refreshments and food were greatly appreciated.  Of course, when we went for the cold sodas, the afternoon rainstorm that had just blown in cut the power to the refrigerator that was cooling our sodas---so we had to make a new mix of cold and warm soda. We weren’t sure if the storm might cancel our meeting, but it cleared up enough to allow us to proceed.  The storm unfolded just like the rain making game played at home.  A few early drops followed by distant thunder, building to an all-out gusher with peels of thunder, and then slowly tapering off to a light smattering of rain and distant thunder. Once gathered at the guesthouse, the former students expressed much gratitude for the program and, in general, they all spoke very highly of the school.  Once Karen and I interview more graduates, we will write in greater detail about this process in the days ahead.  For Bududa residents, gaining a real job skill is an important and still rare step, but it is only the first step to earning a living.  What usually follows is an individual path taken amidst family needs and crisis, person health concerns, acquiring the necessary tools for one’s trade, and a whole host of other possible impediments.  The graduates we spoke with today all showed remarkable persistence and are earning money at their trade, although for some, it is still not steady earning.  For example, one young graduate trained as a brick layer, has been able to hire onto specific building projects, but is not working full time for a masonry company.  He believes he is expanding his skills and getting a good reputation, but he has to keep hustling and hoping to find work. Sharing such stories on the front porch was a true pleasure and privilege.

Darkness came on quickly and after debriefing on our interviews, we made supper:  fresh tomatoes and avocado (a large avocado costs 20 cents) with some cheese on chaptis washed down with a left over Coke.  We cleaned up after dinner and now wind down at day’s end.  Tomorrow it is up at 6:00am getting ready to walk the 2 miles to head back to school.

View from the front porch

Path from the main road to the Guesthouse 


Side garden and Robert the gardener, planting lettuce, beans, radishes








Thursday, November 23, 2017

Happy Thanksgiving from Etosha, Namibia

We send the happiest of Thanksgiving to everyone.  This has always been our favorite holiday and we are spending it in Etosha National Park in Namibia.  We have enjoyed a wonderful day in the park and continue to feel blessed to be able to have such experiences.  We miss everyone at home, especially today.  Peace be with you and know you are in our hearts.
Happy Thanksgiving from the Tropic of Capricorn!

Sunday, November 19, 2017

Journeying through South Africa

We arrived in Kenton-on-Sea, South Africa, on October 16, so happy to be back in South Africa (we visited here with our son, Derek, in 2004) and so happy to be reunited with our longtime friend, Sally.  Sally was an exchange student in David’s High School in 1969-70 and what started with a mutual love of Jimmy Hendricks has now evolved into a 48 year friendship.  Sally is a retired teacher of English Literature and a life-long resident of South Africa-----and a lot of fun to be with!  She agreed to travel with us for about a month and she organized this trip through much of the country.  And what a trip it has been----so beautiful, so meaningful, so thought-provoking-----with great birds and flora and fauna and history and present day understandings/questions all thrown into the mix.
 
Malachite Sunbird on watsonia flower on Sani Pass

On top of Sani Pass entering Lesotho with Sally


We left from Kenton and headed to the Drakensberg Mountains.  We stayed in this region for several days and went up in Lesotho by way of the Sani Pass.  This is an all –day adventure up a steep and precarious dirt road that leads to a magical land up over the pass. We then headed toward the Indian Ocean coast to St. Lucia and Cape Vital.  The area lies along the Indian Ocean wetlands and it is one of South Africa’s best birding sites.  We stayed in a cabin right next to the ocean for several days.  Highlights included many species of antelope, seeing endangered Samanga monkeys, and seeing the Purple Turaco and a Red-chested Cuckoo---a bird Sally has heard calling all her life but never seen until now.  

From here it was on to Kruger National Park, one of the great treasures for wildlife and preservation in the world. There were so many highlights here, but our three-day hike into the unfenced bush of Nayalaland and seeing the Big Five (Elephant, Rhino, Buffalo, Lion, and Leopard) were two of the best.  Our guide for the walk, Ndou, was featured in a recent Country Life magazine article.  We bought the magazine before the trip to study up for the trip, not knowing it featured the person who would become our guide----and it turned out that Ndou did not know the article had been written. Midway through the hiking trip we all finally put this together and we ended the trip by gladly giving Ndou the magazine.  He was thrilled to see the article and to share this with his family.

From Kruger we left the park and headed north to the Limpopo River, staying on a guest farm.  We were able to stand by the Limpopo and look across to Zimbabwe and Botswana.  We had terrific discussions with the host, Riley, about preservation of open space in relationship to farming----these followed similar discussions in Kruger with Ndou.  A highlight was visiting the Mapungubwe, a site of a native culture dating from about 800-1290 AD.  It reminded Karen and me so much of the Chaco Canyon culture in America. From here we headed south to Johannesburg to visit with Sally’s daughter, Nicky, and her family and visit with Sally’s sister, Maryanne and husband, Brian.  Maryanne and Brian took us out to their house along the nearby Vaal River. It was a real treat to meet more of Sally’s family and spend time together.  From here we headed south toward Kenton with a stop on a Karoo Farm and guesthouse.  We spotted our second owl here, a Barn Owl.  Finally we made our way back to Kenton----and to sad good-byes with Sally.

Karen and I then headed to Cape Town where we have been for the past 5 days.  We visited the Cape Point Park (the southeastern most point of Africa), Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens, the spectacular new Zeitz Modern Art Museum, and went out on a pelagic birding boat trip that was incredible. We head to Namibia and Etosha National Park next before heading back to Uganda in a week. 





We are well and we hope you are as well.

Friday, October 27, 2017

The Wonders of South Africa

After two weeks in Bududa, Uganda, getting oriented to the school and its programs, and meeting new friends and reconnecting with old ones, we headed to South Africa to meet our friend Sally and see some of her amazing country. She lives in the Eastern Cape region near the ocean in Kenton-on-Sea, an absolutely stunning coastal area on the Indian Ocean. Sally was an exchange student in 1969-1970 at David's high school in Perkasie, PA. They quickly discovered their mutual love for Jimmy Hendrix and they have been friends ever since.

Kenton-on-Sea, South Africa....Sally's home.

We spent a few days catching up on our lives....we have not seen each other since our 2004 trip to Africa....while planning and preparing for our South African journey with Sally. On Friday, October 20 hit the road. We drove all day and arrived in Underburg in the Drakensburg mountains, the highest mountain chain in SA. The bird life is delighting us and we saw Cape Weavers, Sacred Ibis, Red Bishops and Egyptian Geese there....just to name a few.

A trip up the Sani Pass into the Kingdom of Lesotho, a remote mountain top country in the middle of South Africa, was breathtaking. The road up the pass is dirt and gravel and very tough, but Roger, our expert driver got us up and back safely....and what a trip! Beautiful vistas as we climbed from 1500 meters to 3000 meters and entered Lesotho at the top of the world. We had lunch at the highest pub in Africa...what a claim to fame!

On top of the Sani Pass in Lesotho



Sheep herdsmen of Lesotho

From the Drakensburgs we moved on to Cape Vidal along the Indian Ocean for a few days. It is a hot spot for birding along the coast. We saw the Green Twinspot, the Red-breasted Cuckoo, Cape Weaver, and Wahlberg's and Martial eagles, to name a few. We also saw a host of mammals including red duikers, oribi, kudu, nyala, black rhinos and Semango monkeys.

Cape Weaver nest building

Our travels have now taken us farther north in SA into Kruger National Park, the largest game park in the country.  It is so vast, wild and remote. We visited Kruger for the first time in 2004 with our son, Derek, who was 10 years old at the time, and we feel very lucky to be able to return. In two days we have seen elephants, white rhinos, cape buffalo, wildbeast, impala and a den of spotted hyenas....with cubs! Birds include lilac-breasted and purple rollers, white-faced vultures, hornbills (grey, yellow and red-billed) and the gray turaco. We will be in Kruger for the next 5 days.

An elephant family in Kruger

Similarities and contrasts between Uganda and South Africa are striking, and we will try and reflect more about this later on. In the meantime, enjoy these photos from this part of our trip.


More beauty from Kruger